Glass Block Installation – Trader Cheats
You they can install glass block!
It’s not the easiest do-it-yourself project out there, but it might be the most rewarding, because it can be challenging and will impress everyone, especially you! I discovered the following tips over the past eight years while building a successful glass block installation business in Palm Coast, Florida. You won’t find them in any installation guide, because installers don’t write the guides!
Start with the fun stuff: design the window. There are only a few glass block manufacturers: Pittsburgh Corning (distributed by Home Depot and Lowe’s, to name a few), Weck, and Mulia. Personally, I prefer Mulia – the price is usually lower, the block meets the same design standards (all 4-inch-deep blocks meet Florida hurricane codes, the most stringent standards in the country), and Mulia paints the inner edge of the block. , which makes a nicer detail when the window is finished. All three make similar sizes and patterns. Design with openness in mind: Pittsburgh Corning has an excellent guide on their website for planning the project. Whichever block you choose, you can use this site as a planning tool. Just be sure and plan for a masonry installation – it’s the most cost-effective, the easiest to finish, and the best looking. Follow that guide for a list of materials: glass blocks, spacers, glass block mortar, panel anchors, reinforcement, and expansion joint. Do not use channels; they complicate the project without any added benefit and less visual appeal.
Tip #1: Rough Opening Size
You want the approximate opening to be one inch above the nominal dimension of the window. Simply put, if you want a window that is six blocks wide by six blocks high, using an eight-inch block (the standard size), your nominal dimension would be 6 blocks x 8 inches = 48 inches. + 1 inch = 49 inches Now that you know the standard, know tolerance. Tea Current the size of the glass block window will only be 47 3/4 inches x 47 3/4 inches. That 49-inch opening you’re looking for can vary by as much as an inch, and you can still make the window fit. So don’t make hair stand on end.
Tip #2: The Bed Hinge
The bed joint is the foundation – it is a layer of mortar laid on the windowsill. If you are a true inch over nominal size, split it and make a half inch bed joint. You can estimate this, just check the opening after the bed joint is down to make sure you have enough room for the glass block. The secret to a self-standing window is the bed joint. Leave the mortar (that has the consistency of homemade mashed potatoes), then sprinkle it liberally with dry mortar. This will allow you to level this bed without the level sticking to it. If you start with a firm, level bed, you will rarely have to make adjustments as you work your way up. Using your level, create a flat bed about 4 inches deep, to accommodate the depth of the block. Taking your time on this step will save you time and aggravate the rest of the project!
Tip #3–The butter!
Spreading mortar on the edge of the glass block is affectionately known as “Butter block”. Butter first row as follows: Left side and right side of block, butter to fill gap to about 1/4″ past edge. This leaves enough mortar to adhere to the next block. Most importantly, butter the bottom of the block flush with the outer lips. It is very important that this mortar stays flat as it will adhere to the bed joint and ensure that the first course is as level as the bed joint. If your butter is lumpy on the bottom, you’ll have to work harder to even out this course. Work smart and not hard! This is the only course that will require butter on the bottom of the block. Throughout the rest of the window, you’ll only butter the sides, except for the last course, which will also be buttered on top.
Tip #4: The level that acts as a straight edge
While a four foot level is used to keep the block level, keep a six foot level handy to keep the block flush with the outside of the opening. This eliminates the need to worry about whether the glass block is tipping in or out. Simply hold the long level so that it covers the opening, then tap the glass block to level it. Do this at the top and bottom of the glass block, to ensure it is plumb with the wall.
Tip #5: A good grout job can make a good window look great!
Conversely, a sloppy grout job can ruin a great window. Once you’ve removed all the spacers, take a minute and sponge the entire window. Doing a preliminary cleaning at this stage makes final cleaning much easier. Rub the tough spots, paying close attention to the corners of the block, where the mortar likes to accumulate. Using a textured grout trowel, spread the mortar like tile grout, filling all joints flush with the block. Cleanliness is the key to grouting. Start by cleaning the entire window, concentrating on smoothing and flattening the seams. Next, clear three blocks at a time; any other will only scratch the mortar. Wipe three, flip the sponge, wipe three, rinse the sponge. Think of the sponge like toilet paper and never wipe twice with one side! If there are any streaks left, don’t worry about them, they will be removed with a towel after the grout has dried.
Tip #6–Congratulations
Invite your friends and/or family to show them how useful you are. You just became the expert!
Bonus tip: Protect your hands!
Mortar in general and glass block mortar in particular are very hard on the skin. There are many gloves on the market, but my favorites are disposable powdered latex medical gloves, found at any drugstore in boxes of 50. Change them from time to time, as they will have small holes, but they protect your skin and allow you to feel what you are doing