Bishop to Bodie and Beyond, exploring the Eastern Sierras of California
Bishop is a gateway city that marks the beginning (or end, depending on your address) of the Eastern Sierras visual spectacle that runs along California’s north-south Highway 395, east of the Sierras, but not quite to Nevada.
If you’re going anywhere on 395, you’ll likely go through Bishop. This is a town that marks a change of scenery from a dry and arid desert to the south, to the rich and rugged views of the Sierra to the north. Don’t miss a stop at EriK Schat’s Bakery downtown, the only intersection with a traffic light. One could almost spend a whole day here tasting the delicious treats in this special bakery. In addition to the usual sweets, there are apparently dozens of different styles of bread. This is a “don’t miss” when traveling through Bishop.
Continuing north you will find Mammoth Lakes. This haven for Angelenos getting away from the big city has turned what used to be a quiet mountain getaway into a viable community. The small town I knew a few years ago is now hidden behind high-end stores, condominiums, a high school, and a hospital. Getting away from the city to Lake Mary is still very enjoyable and the hike up to the devil’s pole pile is very popular. to dissect the city center making it a bit confusing for the first time visitor. Get into the country above the city with the lakes and postpile, this is wonderful.
Off the beaten path, and far from the hordes that seem to have grown up around Mammoth, lies the Devil’s Post Pile. We love the scenery and this strange geological attraction is worth a look. The hike from Post Pile to Rainbow Falls is also worth it, about 3 miles, lots of drop offs and some steep sections.
Leaving Mammoth, one heads north to the sleepy hamlet of June Lake, which always seems to be photo-ready for some Field and Stream magazine, with sporting log cabins and plaid-shirted fishermen in abundance. The 14 mile June Lake Loop takes you back along the base of the mountains where a small ski hill can be found, a great learning hill for families. The northernmost lake, Lake Grant, is a reservoir lake and although it does have fishing, it lacks the usual shoreline that makes lakes so pretty. The other lakes, Silver and June, are natural and ringed by Aspen for great fall color photos.
The next stop on the way is Lee Vining, a gateway to Yosemite and where Highway 120 intersects Highway 395. A left turn will soon take you into Yosemite National Park at Tioga Pass. But let’s visit some highlights of the Eastern Sierra before we back up here.
Lee Vining has a wonderful interactive visitor and information center that focuses on the “moon-esque” Mono Lake. The lake was, in recent years, the center of attention in terms of water use rights. Nearly drained by Los Angeles in the 1980s to meet its massive water needs, locals along with the help of various national agencies banded together and sued to get the water back. Mono Lake is now quite full and alive with shrimp, birds and all sorts of little creatures. The Lee Vining Visitor Center is a wealth of information, images, history, and learning opportunities about this unique part of California. Note: Previous lower water levels in the lake allowed for extreme views of the rock figures common throughout the lake which are now mostly covered again.
As you drive north away from the lake, look back and see that much more continues than you would think from your first view of the lake. You are now heading towards Bodie, be careful as there is only one often overlooked sign indicating the Bodie turnoff and it is a right turn then 12 miles. Once on the road to Bodie, civilization quickly fades away and the road eventually turns to gravel. Watch out for the hillside shepherd and his dogs in the meadow to the right, very European! Once in Bodie, head to the museum. This is where you will pick up your passes for the Gold Stamping Mill Tour. Only a few dollars, but well worth it in history, local color, and interesting information about a bygone era. Tours are at 11:00 am and 1:00 pm daily. If you can’t get a tour, please take a moment to consult one of the docents or rangers, they have in depth knowledge and seem to really enjoy sharing it!
Here we have to decide which way to go after Bodie, back to Yosemite or towards Lake Tahoe. Once the weather turns and snow starts, perhaps in late October or early November, Tioga Pass will be closed to traffic until late May or early June of the following year. The next closest junction to clear for the winter is Highway 88, a little north of us, but another lovely drive! If you’ve planned your trip when the pass is closed, after Bodie, stay on 395 toward Tahoe, where you’ll have several options to continue your explorations, either east and Nevada or west and California.
If you’re traveling in the summer months with the open pass, we step back a bit. After Bodie, return to Hwy 395 and south again to Hwy 120 at Lee Vining and turn right towards Yosemite. Stop for dinner at the Mobile gas station on your left. This is the Whoa Nelly Deli, sign posted “Restaurant” and is a wonderful quick and low key stop for a full gourmet snack, lunch or dinner… always delicious and very fairly priced. The Whoa Nelly Deli is only open while Tioga Pass is open. Preferred seating would be outside at a picnic table overlooking Mono Lake.
Going up the “hill”, you will soon reach the pinnacle, Tioga Pass. It is highly recommended to stop along the way to see photo shots, as well as enjoy a few days in the park. http://www.nps.gov/yose is the official website for Yosemite National Park and can provide the traveler with plenty of trip planning tools.
Leaving the park if you are heading to San Francisco, you will return to the 120 freeway, past Crane Flat and exit at the Big Oak entrance, or exit in this case. Your next stop should be the gold rush town of Groveland. Interesting spots here include the museum at the intersection of 120 and Ferretti Road, open daily from 1-4 p.m. The Iron Door Saloon is a step back in time and Mountain Sage is a destination in its own right, a wonderful stop for cafe, gardens and nursery, hammock garden, art, crafts, books and sitting corners. Another place where one could spend the day. They also have wireless here if you need an internet connection.
If Groveland is a place to sleep, http://www.StayNearYosemite.com can offer a diverse selection of lodging options in the area and http://www.groveland.org can provide a preview of dining options.
Enjoy!