Autumn in Kinsale, Co Cork, Ireland
Have you ever been to Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland? If so, you know it’s a medieval fishing village, but also a yachting community that straddles Irish small-town rural village life and an international cosmopolitan vibe. Kinsale enjoys the best of many worlds. Our population ranges from perhaps 3,000 in the dead of winter, when most people have fled to warmer climates, to 10,000 or more in the height of summer, when everyone is in residence and all the tourists have dwindled.
This article is not about the hustle and bustle of an active resort town, but rather about the joys and delights in a quick “walk” through the city center that is only available in the fall here. Since its autumn, or autumn, the Irish will say, life is moving a little more slowly than in the summer. You’ll hear the locals catch up and always talk about the weather. If you just start every conversation with a comment about whether it’s a nice day or a rainy day, you’ll fit right in. Looking down on the map of Kinsale town center you will see a small square surrounded by shops. Surrounding that would be five other business streets with three or four long driveways, each leading into this tangle. It is the outer streets, running through the city and out at the quay, that comprise the busiest section of the city. Built in medieval times, with narrow streets, this half-mile square contains a myriad of enchanting and fantastic Irish experiences. This article will take you through some of my favorites. The walk begins in a corner, going down to the town, in the church of St. Multose, erected in 1190, which is currently decorated after the end of the Harvest Service. Harvest is a big season in Ireland, a surprise to our American visitors, who couple the celebration with Thanksgiving. A quick stop at the church reveals beautiful stained glass windows and a peaceful place to contemplate ancient history while blending in with the modern world. Continue through the gate taking a right and heading towards the center of town. Turning around, you pass Tap Tavern, which should be a stop for you later that night. There is no pub in Kinsale as quaint as “The Tap”. A hangout for the local acting types, it has several small rooms where you can find a place to chat with your friends or, if you fancy mixing with the locals, grab a seat at the bar. The Ghost Tour starts from here, so you’re likely to see all sorts of believable and not-so-believable characters.
Enjoy walking down the street as you meander toward downtown, with its art galleries, restaurants, and shops, but be sure to stop at Eileen Murphy’s Paint Shop. The sign above the door says Murphy’s and you’ll know from the window on the right that they sell paint, but the left side of the store is packed with an amazing assortment of homewares and gifts. Since it’s fall, the windows have stained glass lamps and other cozy homey items, designed to make us think of cozy evenings by a campfire. Looking around the store, notice that it doubles as both a delivery location and a Kinsale news hub. Eileen does the town a great service by offering to keep something from one person so someone else can stop by and get it later in the day. And of course with each installment we get to hear the latest news about things like Kinsale standing up with the Tiny Town Campaign this year.
There are many fantastic places to shop for gifts in Kinsale, each with their own reasons for being so charming. The other two I recommend to most would-be Hamish Hawken’s and the Perryville House gift shop. The owner of Hamish Hawkens has a practical eye and at the same time everything has an unusual style that makes it seem “one of a kind” when you bring it home. Perryville House has the best Irish pottery and always lovely housewares. But like I said, shopping is such an individual experience in Kinsale which has dozens of shops each with their own unique style. You will surely find several that you will love. Finally, when it’s time to stop and rest your feet, you’re also spoiled for choice. If you want to have a coffee or lunch I would recommend Cucina’s upscale nouvelle cuisine or Salvi’s which is quiet and open to moms with strollers. If the weather is nice, there are a couple of restaurants with outdoor tables where you can sit and enjoy the bustle of the city.
Dinner, however, is where Kinsale shines. Known as the culinary capital of Ireland, there are dozens of excellent restaurants, some ethnic, some traditional Irish and some just fantastic gourmet food. My favorite of the latter variety is Max’s Wine Bar, where they serve up perfect proportions of flavorful delights from a menu crafted from what was fresh that day, all enhanced with fantastic wines. Fishy Fishy is happy and reliable, and definitely the restaurant in town that gets the most attention. Located just behind the dock road rose garden, don’t be surprised if in a busy season you may have a short line waiting to get in. The Blue Haven serves delicious food and can accommodate travelers at times when other restaurants may be closed or full. Just the other night when we were there we were enjoying traditional Irish music while eating in the bar.
Wherever you go in Kinsale, whether you stay here for one night in a B&B or hotel, or for several nights in self-catering accommodation, you’ll find our town friendly, interesting and charming. You only have to browse the Kinsale net to see that many people have great memories of their time here. But in my heart, there is no better time than fall.