Real Estate

Paint a room in one day

Paint a room in one day? Wow, now I have your attention! Yes, it is possible for ceilings and walls, but be prepared to budget for a long day’s time to claim a successful finish. However, you need to be well prepared by planning ahead, and ideally another day should be allocated for preparation, which is the key to successful painting. You’ll need to start early in the morning, but it is in fact possible to paint a room in one day using this method that will produce an attractive, long-lasting finish before bed. Keep in mind that what I recommend in this article will take a bit of effort and effort. Relax, I’m not including the windows, doors, jambs, and trim strips, which will take more time and care to be more precise.

That’s a good thing, because in a well-planned remodel situation, especially when it comes to replacement, the doors, windows, jambs, and trim molding can be prepared, primed and coated separately first and finished later in the later phases.

Painting is the best way I encourage homeowners to save on the total cost of a remodeling project with their contributed capital. It’s the simplest and most direct way for them to get involved in customizing an exciting remodel project, realizing their vision, and enjoying the satisfaction of knowing a job has been done right. This article is for you, owner!

And the key to a well-done paint job is planning and then preparation. There will not be enough time on painting day to include selecting paint color swatches at the local home improvement center and expecting calm, relaxation, and patience, primary requirements for success. Take an inventory of the various tools and supplies needed, such as primer, brushes, rollers, masking tape, or protective cloths, and purchase everything in advance. I have found it worth paying for a quality roller cover that will not leave a staple fiber trail in the paint as the roller wears. Of course, all the paint referenced is water-based latex.

If you can, prepare the room a day in advance. And this could take longer than you might expect, so you need to budget your time accordingly. Remove all possible furniture from the room. You will be amazed at how much elbow room you may need to operate the roller handle extension pole or move the ladder and not spill or splatter paint. Cover the floor with thick, not plastic, rags that can slip on hardwood or stick to your shoes or ladder. Plastic can be a good idea to cover the carpet under the drop cloths. Spills can happen, even for professionals.

Organize all your supplies and tools and visualize how they will be used, see what may be missing or what needs a raise. Setting the lighting, perhaps a powerful halogen lamp on a bracket, will help you see what is going on, especially on the ceiling where I find it more difficult to see the coverage correctly.

Remove all obstructions from the wall and ceiling. This includes window treatments and wall-hanging pictures, of course, but don’t forget about wall switches and outlet cover plates. Remove the ceiling lamp, if possible, otherwise mask and unscrew and lower the eschutcheon.

Now evaluate the existing paint surfaces. It is best to remove dirt stains embedded in the previous ceiling and wall paint layers with a sanding post. Glossy finishes should be sanded, especially on trim molding, to allow the new paint to adhere. Sanding raises dust, so wear a respirator mask, especially if you suspect lead paint in houses painted before 1978. Vacuum up the dust.

Paint does not adhere well to dirty surfaces and peels. Sanding dust, dirt, hand stains, and smoke residue should be washed off all ceiling and wall surfaces and trim molding. Use a solution of 1/4 cup TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) in 2 gallons of water with a sponge and a sponge on a stick. Protect yourself with sturdy rubber gloves. TSP in a stronger solution etches the brightest painted surfaces and will need to be rinsed, but do not soak the surfaces. The bleach will help remove mold. Wipe wet surfaces to speed drying.

Repair any minor damage and fill in small cracks. Use caulk to fill the holes for hanging pictures and painter’s putty to fill small cracks around the trim. Larger cracks in the walls will be best repaired with tape and drywall joint compound.

Mask conservatively, ideally only those horizontal areas that are vulnerable to paint splashes and falling off, such as the chair rail and base moldings. One tricky step is masking the carpet in the baseboards. A wide putty knife can help press down on the masking tape, compress the carpet, and place the tape under the skirting board. The kraft paper with masking tape will help protect the edges of the carpet. You don’t want the carpet fibers to paint or stick to the baseboards, and you want to be able to paint the baseboards as completely as possible.

Now, at last, you are ready to start painting. Wear latex gloves to protect your hands. Have a damp cloth and a bucket of slightly soapy water ready to clean up fresh splatters. Covering up dark paint usually requires more hiding power. Primer helps hide darker surfaces and helps paint adhere, which is why I recommend priming everything from the ceiling down. Start by cutting a 2 “strip around the perimeter of the ceiling with a sponge or an angled brush. I like sponges, which seem to hold more paint. Then I roll up the cut edge with a small roller to remove the scratches and create a roller. Sponge tools come in various configurations for painting corners or cutting near trim molding.

Then fill in the rest of the unpainted ceiling space with a quality roller and extension handle, using the familiar M or W overlapping strokes. Cover areas of about 2 square feet at a time, allowing you to roll back and smooth paint ridges off the roller before they dry. Move through the space methodically in squares, so as not to overtake. Painting the ceiling perpendicular to a window will help hide the roller marks. Painting the walls from the ceiling down will soften the lower backsplashes. Cut corners and around windows and doors using sponges and the same technique. The primer will require about 1 to 2 hours to dry before reapplying the coat.

Use the same painting techniques to apply two coats of paint, again starting from the ceiling down. Allow the first coat of paint to dry for 4 hours before applying another coat. If you try to paint too early, the previous coat will peel off, lifted by the roller. Flat ceiling paint hides plaster, drywall, and paint imperfections well. Eggshell wall paint works well, combining toughness with coverage. Use semi-gloss paint for kitchen, bathroom, and trim strips for toughness and cleanability.

Painting trim molding is straightforward, using the same planning and preparation guidelines. Use long, steady strokes and let the brush glide. Just don’t load the brush with too much paint.

Use liquid dish soap and warm water for all cleaning. Clean sponge tools between coats or discard. The rollers can be placed in plastic bags and stored in the refrigerator between layers. The rollers are difficult for me to clean so I dispose of them instead of changing paint colors. Re-decant excess paint from the roller tray into the can between coats. I find plastic tray liners useful and easy to clean or dispose of. Take care of brushes with careful cleaning. A wire brush can help keep the bristles clean and free of dried paint. Keep the shape of the brush with its original cover after drying with a rotary brush. Latex additives help paint performance by allowing paint to lie flat, reduce stretch marks after rolling or brushing, and increase working time, especially on trim molding. Remove the masking tape immediately.

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